New England Fish Chowder

Sandy notes that the whole point of chowders is that they don’t require recipes. Instead, she figures on a formula per person: one quarter -pound of fish, one medium potato, half a medium onion, one cracker, and enough liquid to float ’er. Once you have the basics down you can change some of the quantities depending on what’s on hand—adding or subtracting a potato and using whatever good white fish is available. The Crown pilot crackers, however, are an essential ingredient (see appendix page TK for ordering information) and become very dumplinglike in the broth. This soup will definitely bring you home. For those who require a recipe, Sandy offers the following.

INGREDIENTS
2-inch-square piece salt pork, finely chopped
2 medium onions, cut in half lengthwise and thinly sliced
crosswise
1 pound cod, cut into 1-inch pieces
(may substitute haddock, cusk or hake)
4 medium potatoes, peeled and sliced
3 to 4 Crown pilot crackers, broken into 1- or 2-inch pieces
about 1 quart water
1 12 ounce can evaporated milk

PROCEDURE
Render the salt pork in a large heavy-bottomed pot. Layer in onions, cod, potatoes, and crackers loosely so that you can see the previous layer. Add 1 quart water or enough to cover until it just appears among the ingredients. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are soft. Add the evaporated milk and heat it through. (Sandy notes to stir and heat “gently, gently.”) If desired, serve the chowder with a pat of sweet butter on top.

MAKES ABOUT 8 CUPS

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